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このちがいが、風が吹いたり止んだりする“リズム”を作っているのです。
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Wind Waves - These are generally the commonest waves. In these waves, wind transfers plenty of energy when it is available in connection with the water surface. This sorts ripples in drinking water. The greater substantial the wind, slot dana the larger sized the waves created.
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As being a wave passes, h2o moves forwards and up above the wave crests, then down and backwards in the troughs, so There's minor horizontal motion. This is apparent if you have ever watched an object for instance a seabird floating within the surface. The chicken bobs up and down since the wave move beneath it; it doesn't get carried horizontally by only one wave crest.
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These usually transfer much more gradually than area waves, and may be much bigger, with heights exceeding a hundred m. Nonetheless, the peak with the deep wave could be unnoticeable at the floor.